Ampeg V4.com

as I recall,  the gv22 has two 8 ohm speakers ran in series, for 16 ohms.   when you plug a cab into the ext speaker jack it switches the output tap from 16 to 8.   

which means you should use a 16ohm cab.

Oh my gosh, you don't know how helpful that information was.  Thank you very much!!!

As long as the second cabinet was 16 ohms you would be fine.

It's the load that is important.

another quick question now that i am thinking about it.  Will it matter if the gv22 cabinet speakers wired in series for 16 olms and I plug a 16 olm cab that is wired parallel?  (fyi:  marshall 1960ax  that has 4 16 olm greenback speakers ran parallel for a 16 olm load cab)

i.e. series and parallel set ups through the ext cab jack?

The gv-22 is 35 watts.   I am not sure what your impedance question is... It seems like you are asking the same question again?
If the speakers in the amp are wired for 16ohms,  and the cabinet is 16 ohms,  you are good.  It doesn't matter if tha amp speaks are series and the cab is parallel

No doubt,  it is hard to finda gv-22 in great shape,  most of them have been monkeyed with.  So I can understand your concern,  I just didn't know if I was understanding the question.

Installing the 3prong will fix that problem.   Cut out c24 when you do the 3 prong upgrade.

As for books that teach how to read a schematic.... I don't know of any off hand.  You kinda need an understanding of what the components do to know what is happening in the schematic.  If electronics really interest you, any beginning electronics book would help.

I always advocate putting screen resistors in amps that don't have any.   
cap job is important to do soon,   you could wait a little... but truth is if you're using it often,  its a good idea to get it done.   you don't want to wait for a catastrophic failure. 

as for the gv-22 / vibrolux comparison... its a fair comparison of the two companies offerings... small 35-40 watt amp with reverb and tremolo. 
but that is where the similarities stop... the ampeg has vibrato, uses a capacitor coupled reverb circuit, uses a baxandall tone stack,  uses at pentode to drive a cathodyne phase splitter,  and does not have a Choke in the power supply.     and thats just the more general differences.   if we wanted to pull out the fine toothed comb,  there are more.

truthfully,  if you want it done right,  it wont be cheap.   The Gv-22 has two multi can caps   one inside the amp, and one mounted to the chassis.   
when we have done the recap we always end up punching a hole in the chassis for the extra multi-can.   there is plenty of room for this. 
The screen resistors are a little easier because the tubes are chassis mount.   so thats pretty quick. 

for a job like that i would be prepared to pay $200-250.   might be a bit cheaper out where you are,  being a bit less urban.

wow you got a great deal!   I would snag one of those in a heartbeat for that price. they usually go for $550 or higher.   

look on the bright side... had you spent $600 on a brand new amp... it wouldn't last half as long as that one already has,  nor would it sound nearly as good. 

the filter capacitors may or may not exhibit obvious signs of failure.   but you can look to see if they are bubbling, bulging or leaking at the end of the multi can that has the terminals.   
Ampeg usually used really great multi cans in that era,  so they tend to hold up well... but If I were you I would take care of them sooner than later.    it tends to be wise to replace components like that after 20-25 years of use.   those are coming up on 45 years.   

one of the most common restorative repairs we do at the shop is recaps.   most amps that are coming in from the 50s and early 60s with their original electrolytics show signs of eminent failure... or they already have.   in some cases the caps blow up and spew there guts into the amp....   in those cases that $250 price tag will double.   because I hate dealing with the nasty job of cleaning up those toxic (and probably cancer causing) messes. 

its just routine maintenance.  like changing the timing belt on a car.    its expensive to do... but its much more expensive to not do and have it fail.

for the rocker switches,  you'll have to open the amp up and squirt in the back.   don't use Deoxit.   use a contact cleaner that does not leave a residue.   Big Bath contact cleaner or equivalent.
often times they clean out nicely other times they need to be disassembled and cleaned.    but try to spay them out first.


the recap on the GV-22 is a little involved as i recall.  there is one  30uf 600V axial cap clamped inside the amp,  one 3x40uf multi can,  and then a 20uf 500 axial which I believe is also clamped inside the amp.

What I have done in the past is replaced the 30uf with 2 80ufs in series with bleeder resistors across them.   you could also get one of Webers 30uf 600V caps.  they are good quality. 

then I replace the multi can with a dual 50uf

and there is plenty of green chassis space,  so I cut another hole for a dual 32 multi can.  which I use to replace the 40uf and 20uf. 

so its not as simple as just dropping in some replacements.  although if you did get the weber caps,  they make a 40x40x40 multi can which would work too.   
so that would make the whole thing a lot easier.

it should be pretty strait forward if you just do the 30uf 600V weber and the 40x40x40 weber.   pull the chassis first and make sure my memory is correct of course.   this is all from memory,  and it may be that your gv22 has already seen some work... who knows?

the 20 and the 40 aren't in parallel.  the 20 is used at point E and the 40 and point D.     I use a dual 32,  which drops slightly the filter value at point D  but I rationalize it because I raised it slightly at point C and A. hard to find exact values for all the caps. unless you're willing to spend some real money.

I big bath is for tube sockets,  jacks and switches.   that oily residue that deoxit leaves behind attracts dust and over time it becomes a sticky mess.   
for faders I use the deoxit fader lube.   but you gotta be careful not to use too much.   otherwise it leaks out and you get an oily muck all over circuit boards or the inside of a chassis.

No help?